An engine misfire occurs when one or more cylinders fail to complete normal combustion — the air-fuel mixture doesn't ignite correctly, ignites too late, or doesn't ignite at all. The result is a cylinder that produces no power during that cycle, creating the rough, stumbling sensation drivers describe as a misfire.
The symptoms are usually noticeable. The causes range from cheap and simple (a worn spark plug) to expensive and serious (a failing fuel injector, a mechanical compression issue). Knowing how to read the symptoms and narrow the cause before replacing parts is the difference between a $40 repair and a $400 one. This is part of the Total Ownership Guide.
Symptoms of an Engine Misfire
Rough or uneven idle: The most common misfire symptom. An engine with a misfiring cylinder feels rough at idle — a rhythmic stumble or shake that is felt through the seat, steering wheel, or gear selector. On a 4-cylinder engine, a single cylinder misfire is 25% of the power output — the rough idle is usually pronounced. On a 6- or 8-cylinder engine, a single misfire is less dramatic but still noticeable.
Hesitation or stumbling on acceleration: The engine stumbles, hesitates, or loses power momentarily during acceleration. The misfire may be intermittent — present during acceleration and absent at steady speed or idle.
Check engine light — solid or flashing: A misfire that meets the ECM's threshold for detection triggers a check engine light and stores a misfire code (P0300 for random/multiple misfire; P0301–P0312 for specific cylinders). A flashing check engine light indicates an active, severe misfire — see the check engine light guide.
Loss of power: A noticeable reduction in engine power, particularly under load (climbing hills, accelerating to highway speed).
Increased fuel consumption: A misfiring cylinder passes unburned fuel through the exhaust. The engine compensates (imperfectly) by injecting additional fuel, increasing consumption.
Smell of fuel or sulfur from the exhaust: Unburned fuel passing through the exhaust system can cause a fuel smell. If unburned fuel reaches the catalytic converter and causes it to overheat, a sulfur or burning smell may follow.
The Misfire Fault Codes
Reading the fault code is the first step in misfire diagnosis. See the diagnostic guide for how to read codes.
- P0300: Random or multiple cylinder misfire — misfires detected across multiple cylinders, or the ECM cannot identify a specific cylinder
- P0301–P0312: Misfire in a specific cylinder (the number after P030 is the cylinder number)
- P0316: Misfire detected on engine startup within the first 1,000 revolutions
A specific cylinder code (P0302 = cylinder 2, for example) is the most useful diagnostic starting point — it tells you exactly which cylinder to investigate.
Common Causes of Engine Misfires (In Diagnostic Order)
Spark Plugs — Check First
The most common misfire cause by far. Worn, fouled, or incorrectly gapped spark plugs fail to ignite the air-fuel mixture reliably. A plug that is at or past its replacement interval, oil-fouled, or damaged will produce intermittent or consistent misfires.
How to assess: Pull the spark plug from the misfiring cylinder. Assess the electrode for wear (rounded tip), fouling (black, sooty, or oily deposits), or damage (cracked insulator, eroded electrode). Compare to a new plug and to the plugs from non-misfiring cylinders.
Fix: Replace spark plugs at the manufacturer's interval. If a single plug is fouled while others are not, investigate why that cylinder's plug failed early — it may indicate an oil consumption or fueling issue on that specific cylinder. See the spark plug guide for replacement guidance.
Cost: $40–$150 for a full spark plug set depending on engine size and plug type.
Ignition Coils — Check Second
The second most common cause. Each cylinder (on modern coil-on-plug systems) has its own ignition coil that transforms battery voltage to the 20,000–40,000 volts needed to fire the spark plug. A failing coil produces weak or absent spark, causing misfire.
How to diagnose: The simplest test is a coil swap — move the coil from the misfiring cylinder to a non-misfiring cylinder. Clear the fault code and re-read. If the misfire follows the coil to the new cylinder (P0302 becomes P0304 after moving the cylinder 2 coil to cylinder 4), the coil is faulty. If the misfire stays on the original cylinder, the coil is fine.
Fix: Replace the faulty ignition coil. Cost: $30–$100 per coil, widely variable by make and model.
Fuel Injectors — Check Third
A clogged or failing fuel injector delivers insufficient fuel to its cylinder — causing a lean misfire. Fuel injector issues are less common than spark plugs and coils but more expensive to resolve.
Signs pointing toward injectors: Misfire primarily under load (when fuel demand is high), misfire that persists after plug and coil replacement, injector-related fault codes alongside the misfire code.
Fix: Fuel injector cleaning (sometimes effective for minor clogging, $50–$100) or injector replacement ($200–$800+ depending on vehicle).
Vacuum Leaks — Particularly for Cold or Idle Misfires
An unmetered air leak into the intake manifold upstream of the throttle body creates a lean condition in one or more cylinders. Vacuum leaks often cause misfires at idle that improve at higher RPM (where the leak is a smaller percentage of total airflow).
How to find them: Listen for a hissing sound near the intake area. Use carburetor cleaner or brake cleaner sprayed carefully around vacuum lines, intake manifold gaskets, and throttle body connections — a change in idle quality when the spray hits a leak identifies the location. A professional shop uses a smoke machine for thorough leak detection.
Compression Issues — Check Last
Low compression in a cylinder — from worn piston rings, a damaged valve, or a failing head gasket — means the air-fuel mixture cannot be compressed enough for reliable combustion. This is a mechanical failure rather than an ignition or fueling failure.
Signs pointing toward compression: Misfire that persists after replacing plugs, coils, and injectors; misfire accompanied by blue exhaust smoke (oil burning) or coolant loss (head gasket); misfire in a high-mileage engine.
How to diagnose: A compression test measures cylinder pressure — any cylinder reading significantly below others, or below the manufacturer's minimum spec, indicates a mechanical issue.
Fix: Depending on cause — valve adjustment, valve seat replacement, piston ring replacement, or head gasket replacement. These are major repairs.
Can I Drive With an Engine Misfire?
Solid check engine light, mild misfire at idle: Short-term driving to reach a shop is acceptable. Do not defer the diagnosis for weeks — sustained misfiring accelerates catalytic converter degradation.
Flashing check engine light: Do not drive at highway speeds. An active severe misfire is damaging the catalytic converter with every mile driven. Reduce speed and engine load and address as soon as possible.
Misfire with oil consumption symptoms (blue smoke, oil level dropping): A compression-related misfire is a more serious mechanical problem. Driving on it is possible but the underlying cause is worsening.
How Much Does It Cost to Fix an Engine Misfire?
Spark plug replacement
Typical repair cost: $40–$150 (full set)
Ignition coil replacement
Typical repair cost: $80–$200 per coil
Fuel injector cleaning
Typical repair cost: $50–$150
Fuel injector replacement
Typical repair cost: $200–$800+
Vacuum leak repair
Typical repair cost: $75–$300 depending on source
Head gasket repair
Typical repair cost: $1,200–$2,500
Valve job
Typical repair cost: $800–$2,000
Frequently Asked Questions
*All costs and ranges are estimates and may vary.